ECOTOURISM IN TCI
By Sara J. Kaufmann
Eco-tourism is participating in ecologically sustainable activities, which ideally bring benefit to the local ecosystem. Turks and Caicos Islands has set aside over 33% of its entire land and sea regions for preservation purposes: National Parks, Natures Reserves, Sanctuaries and Protected Areas. The world’s largest biodiversity saltwater wetland reserve – the Ramsar Site – accounts for of 1/3 of East Caicos, ½ of Middle Caicos and ¼ of North Caicos and provides a breeding ground for myriad birds. By preserving these areas, the Turks and Caicos Islands have taken a stand to ensure future generations may still enjoy the natural wonders of this tiny island country.
Although it may seem odd to pair ecotourism and convenience in a sentence, the simple access to unspoiled nature in Turks & Caicos Islands is indeed convenient – both getting to the country and getting to pristine sites once here. This is a tiny country, of forty individual islands – of which only a dozen are inhabited. The archipelago formed by the islands creates a circle, nestled within which we find a wide variety of lifestyles, culture and natural habitats.
The reef is the major feature here in Turks & Caicos, with spectacular walls of coral disappearing into the ocean depths – and TCI is noted as one of the world’s top scuba diving destinations. The protection of the reef is paramount, with dive boat anchor buoys set up, dive etiquette taught to all and knowledgeable dive operators strictly licensed. The health and vibrancy of the TCI reefs is glorious and the experience of drifting gently as an underwater visitor quite awesome. Best yet, for those not inclined to the complexity of scuba diving, the experience of the reef is available by pattering along the surface with a mask and snorkels, lazily watching the myriad small darts of colour, as fish dart in and out of the coral heads.
Kayaking is another special venture here. Sitting on the water, moving through the waves and exploring the mangroves that provide habitat for thousands of birds and nurture the early sea life…. Channels of sand open into quiet bays, tide shifts and dry land becomes covered again – a constant flow that is mesmerizing and fascinating. Kayaking trips are offered on all islands and allow you to commune at your own pace with the sparkling world where the seas meets the shore.
The inner banks are miles of shallow sand set apart from the deep ocean beyond the reef by the circle of islands, and it here that the bonefish cluster. One of the fisherman’s most respected challenges, bone fishing in TCI is a catch and release sport, full of excitement as the bonefish expertly dive and defy the skills of the cast lines. Their bright silver bodies twist and sparkle in the tussle and if caught, they are returned to the sea. A glorious day on the banks leaves you tired and exhilarated, yet pleased to have had your fun in an ecologically viable way.
Hiking is another way to enjoy the beauty of Turks & Caicos Islands, stretching your legs while the fantastic scenery fills your eyes. Miles of pristine beach, pathways to old colonial ruins and trails along the cliffs all await for you to explore. The tough indigenous vegetation colours the land with green, and while surprising yellow or orange leaps up from cactus and flowering shrubs. Take a local guide and listen to the tales of bush medicine made form a wide variety of the plants, good for most ailments. Mountain bikes offer another route through the landscape, and stops at local houses where a warm welcome awaits add to your day.
Most visitors to TCI stay on Providenciales, the main developed island but eco -tourist excursions to the other islands provide a welcome contrast, and take you into the island culture in a fascinating way.
The local residents on the ‘family islands” live a life far removed from the bustle of international tourism on Providenciales, maintaining a dignity and traditional lifestyle that is well worth a visit. The handcrafts produced on many islands by the resident’s use raw materials gathered form the land, grasses and palmtops cleaned, dried, cut and sewn into baskets, hats, brushes, brooms and bags for all uses. A stop to the Middle Caicos Co-op outlet in Blue Hills on Providenciales will introduce you to this traditional art, and your purchases directly support the local residents. This is sustainable ecotourism at its best.
A quick outline of the many islands and excursion alternatives is offered below:
Little Water Cay: A short boat trip from Providenciales you can explore the Turks and Caicos rock iguana preserve, and visit with these fascinating prehistoric wee beasties.
North Caicos: Spend the day exploring a world gone by…strolling through the pastures of former plantation Wade’s Green whose ruins depict island life long ago. Find the natural splendors at Cottage Pond, a bottomless center in the limestone rock, and see the protected pink flamingos in their natural habitat. Kayak in Bottle Creek to the east bay islands reserve…sand islands lost offshore, or ride a bicycle through the winding roadways of Kew. Meet the residents and stop for a taste of local food in a variety of local establishments along the way.
Middle Caicos: A day trip to the most undeveloped island of all…with 300 residents, three villages and five churches. Hike an historic trail along the cliffs, a trail used by natives of long ago to cross between North and Middle Caicos. From the village of Conch Bar, up over the spectacular cliffs at Mudjin Harbour, following the shore to Blowing Hole and all the way to the Crossing Place. The trail is marked with beautiful ceramic cameos and is an inspiration to hike.
A picnic and swim at Mudjin Harbour is truly spectacular, and walk to the Dragon Cay set just offshore at the end of a sands pit. A challenging mountain bike trip along the King’s Road, a handcraft demonstration and a lunch in local home is another great day activity on Middle Caicos. The Conch Bar Caves National Park is famous throughout the Caribbean and guided tours easily arranged.
South Caicos : This island is well known as the fishing capital of TCI. Its placement near the deep Columbus Passage, dividing the Turks and the Caicos island banks, allowed for easy deep water access, but the plethora of small cays nearby allowed for safe plentiful fishing grounds nearby.
Cockburn Town was the original seat of government in colonial times. It is an island of huge variety as the salt pans are circled by high ridges, which offer truly astounding. In some ways, it is the only real town in the country, as the settlement has stayed relatively focused on the harbour – whereas most villages and towns in TCI are rather indistinct and spread out. The international School for Field Studies has been on South Caicos for decades, doing important marine research and working closely with the TCI government to enable best practices to keep the fishing industry viable.
Salt Cay: A day trip via airplane or an overnight exploration, Salt Cay is a very tiny island with a very active history. Walking tours through Balfour Town, echoing the days of the salt merchants and salt rakers who made this island thrive in the 1800′s, are informative and fun. Whale watching from January to March is awe-inspiring, as each year the pregnant whales pass by and frolic on their way. Simply flying over to Salt Cay is a fabulous chance to observe this island country from a new perspective.
Grand Turk: A day trip via airplane or an overnight exploration to the capital of country takes you to a world of colonial architecture and pallet of pastels that make up this island. Take time to visit the Turks and Caicos National Museum which features Taino treasures, messages found at sea in bottles, as well as some momentos recovered from old ship wrecks. Grand Turk has charm if its own, and its history is tangible in the buildings, saltpans, and narrow streets. Although now boasting a modern cruise ship terminal and destination, this island still retains its own identity to explore.
